Canali marks 90 years of tailoring with a heritage-inspired capsule collection
Canali was founded in 1934 by brothers Giovanni and Giacomo Canali, each bringing their expertise to the table – Giovanni as a fabric magnate and Giacomo as a master tailor. By the 1950s, the brand’s ownership transitioned to the second generation of the Canali family, cementing its reputation as a cornerstone of Italian menswear. In the 1970s, Canali became the first Italian tailoring brand to introduce mechanised cutting machines, marrying tradition with innovation. By the 1980s, its reach was global, with half of its sales coming from international markets.
Now with 90 years under its belt, Canali is in its third generation and has continued as a pioneer of Italian luxury for men, bringing tailor-made craft, artisanal techniques and comfort to the modern wearer. The design and manufacturing group has five production locations in Italy and more than 1,500 employees over the world. What’s more is there are 190 boutiques and the brand can be found in 1000 retail stores in more than 100 countries worldwide. “Good manners and kindness are two words that occupy a special place in Canali’s history. They have always reflected an essential trait of our family, an unostentatious way of showing interest and passion for what we do and the story we tell,” writes Stefano Canali, president & CEO of Canali, on the brand’s website.
To say that Canali has a rich heritage would be an understatement. The brand’s distinct aesthetic is immediately recognisable: sharp tailoring and luxurious fabrics are easily spotted amongst the masses. Not to mention the soft-shouldered jackets, perfectly balanced proportions and classy blend of formal and contemporary garments that it has become well-known and loved for. Canali’s collections often feature neutral palettes and patterns like pintrips and checks, excluding a quiet confidence that speaks to the brand’s Italian heritage and focus on the future.
In celebration of nearly a century in the business, Canali has launched its anniversary capsule collection featuring two of its most cherished garments: the overcoat – i.e. the piece that’s at the core of the company – and the suit. The brand has also updated its logo to feature a swan, which is better known as a ‘waterproof animal’ due to the fact its feathers remain dry while going for a swim. The swan is fittingly pictured holding a waterproof overcoat in its beak, which represents the themes of “grace, loyalty, spiritual growth and transformation”, as stated in the brands press release about the launch. The team have placed the swan logo on the custom labels inside the garments, as a nod to “inner beauty”, which guides the ethos of Canali.
Among the overcoats and suits are knit cardigans, cashmere zip-up hoodies and drawstring trousers. All of which encompass the signature silhouette of Canali, where soft lines meet artisanal tailoring. Internal shoulder straps and detachable linings also bring an element of functionality to an otherwise sharp and formal aesthetic, while the footwear in the collection feature snazzy removable fringes and leather accessories with textile inserts. The colour scheme features a typical medley of greys alongside Brianza green, which is a quintessential shade from Canali’s history – and also nods back to the timeless style of the 1930s. The Prince of Wales check is also reworked into the Canali aesthetic, while a chevron pinstripe gives a tactility and texture to the garments.
The materials have long played a key character in the tale of Canali and the garments it produces. For this collection, worsted wools and lighter versions of archive materials have been applied to each piece, from the suits to the waterproof membrane of the overcoats, as well as the bags and footwear. Meanwhile, the hoodies are all composed of cashmere or cashmere-silk blends. The pièce de résistance, however, is a subtle but poignant detail inside each garment: a Cimosa (selvedge) inscribed with “Canali 90th,” like a penned signature – a subtle reminder of Canali’s enduring legacy.
