Talking to the lauded chef as he makes his London debut
You might encounter Akira Back’s award-winning cooking in any number of cities – Paris, Beverly Hills, or Istanbul; his birthplace, Seoul, as well as Aspen, Colorado, where he grew up. His contemporary approach to Japanese cuisine hopes to balance a willingness to experiment with accomplished technical precision.
His first steps into the UK include an eponymous restaurant alongside ABar Lounge, serving mixed drinks and thoughtful snacks. Dosa will join them at the Mandarin Oriental later this year, alongside a rooftop expansion of ABar. He told Port about his path to cooking as well as his hopes for the new space.
Firstly, what was the moment that made you decide you wanted to be a chef?
I was a professional snowboarder and after injuries and changes within the industry I found a new passion in gastronomy. I did not always want to be a chef, but over the years, I have found that it takes even more dedication than snowboarding to reach the highest level and I have loved it ever since.
You’ve got kitchens all over the world, but this is your first in the UK. What excites you about London, and how does location affect your thinking when opening a new space?
I have always been fascinated with London and have loved the city since travelling here as a teenager with my family. From the fast-paced energy to the fashion and architecture, the city has always held a special place in my heart. It has long been a dream of mine to open a restaurant in the city and I am delighted to finally do so with Mandarin Oriental Mayfair. It’s so important to always want to create something special and unique when planning a new opening but it is also essential to ensure that you maintain consistency; I always want service standards, flavour and local ingredients to be at the heart of what I am creating.
It seems like your thinking aims to balance playfulness with tradition – how do you go about that?
I was trained in classic Japanese techniques but also like my food to be a melting pot of culture to reflect my Korean-American heritage and global travels. I enjoy every aspect of life which heavily influences my menus, from sounds I hear to aromas and different flavour profiles, I thoroughly appreciate the creative process whilst incorporating my classical training.
Is there one dish you could explain layer-by-layer to give us an insight into your cooking philosophy?
Braised Short Rib: We have reimagined the classic Korean Galbi Jjim by combining its signature flavours with modern Western slow-braising techniques.
Our journey begins with the careful selection of the finest Wagyu beef, specifically between the 6th and 8th rib bones, ensuring the perfect balance of marbling and flavour. The beef is marinated in a blend of aromatic vegetables and braised with a pear-infused soy sauce and veal jus, creating a deep and savoury taste with a hint of sweetness from Korean pears.
After braising, we meticulously remove excess fat and connective tissues, leaving only the most tender and flavourful portions. Each piece is precisely cut to size and elegantly presented to our guests, offering an unforgettable culinary experience that celebrates both tradition and innovation.
Between your travelling and snowboarding it seems like you’ve experienced quite a lot – are there any surprising ways that influences your menus?
My mother and the food we ate as a child has greatly influenced me as a chef. For example, when I was a child I was actually a bit of a fussy eater, so to entice me, my mother would add candy to my food! This is what inspired me to make my ‘Pop Rockin’ sushi roll, which features pop rocks candy.
ABar is a core part of this new space – do you have a favourite cocktail from the menu?
I highly recommend the Paloma in the Jungle – it’s the perfect cocktail that showcases sweet, sour and savoury flavours through the harmonious blend of Altos Blanco tequila and passion fruit Campari – its orange hue makes the cocktail match the ambience of the room and makes you feel like you are far away, in an exotic jungle.